Iranians are not famous for being big drinkers, like the Russians or the Irish are. In fact, many think, Iranians don’t drink because they are muslims. Alcohol has been illegal in Iran for the past 40 years, but people still drink. After all, Iranians are the drinkers of the middle east. If you are interested in wine, you might have heard of “shiraz” wine. Shiraz is one of Iran’s largest cities, a historic site, that was home to the greatest Iranian drinker of all time: Hafez. Hafez is the most famous Persian poet. He lived during the 14th century. You can not find a home in Iran, that doesn’t own at least one copy of his poetry collection. Professor Rudi Matthee’s book about the history of alcohol in the islamic world is titled: “Angels tapping at the wine-shop’s door”- which is a line from a poem by Hafez.

The word Rudi Matthee has translated as “wine-shop” is “Meikadeh”. But that might not be the most accurate translation. The literal translation of the word is “wine-house” and it was probably more like an early version of an izakaya or a bar. It was a space were men sat and drunk. Meikadeh’s made their own wine. There was usually live music. Perhaps the floors were covered with colourful rugs. Perhaps there was a huge garden in the back. No one knows. There are no ruins, no real records or remains of a real Meikadeh; we mainly know about them from the poems.

In persian poetry, meikadeh is home to a very important persona type: “saaghi”. Saaghis were women who walked around and poured wine for the customers. In persian poetry, especially the poetry of Hafez, saaghi is a very important persona. She is beautiful and sacred. She’s an amazing dancer. The way she pours the wine, makes it stronger. Poets fall in love with her all the time. She pours wine, but in Persian poetry, wine is more than just a drink: wine is the truth; wine is love; wine is the moment; wine is happiness; wine is the pain of separation, and many other things. Poets wrote about her all the time; but no historic records refer to her. We don’t know what her life was like; how she became a saaghi; or how the society treated her. We have even failed to imagine her narrative. There are no stories, no novels, no films, where the character is a saaghi.

In today’s Farsi, the word “saaghi” refers to the person who pours the drink for the rest of the party. We’re inside an apartment. There are five people in the room. The drink is on the table, with crisps, yogurt, ham, pickled cucumbers, sour cherry juice, and olives. he volunteers. “I’m the Saaghi tonight”. It is often a “he”. Girls rarely volunteer. He’s an expert drinker. He says the most interesting toasts. He knows how much drink each of his friends can handle; so he’s going to pour just the right amount. Everyone’s gonna get drunk, but no one’s gonna get sick.

In today’s Farsi, “saaghi” is also a person who sells alcohol; illegally of course. Usually he sells "aragh"-the local drink. It’s made from distilling raisins. He makes it in the basement. It’s a dangerous job. He should avoid being arrested at any costs. He tried looking for another job when he graduated from the university. He looked for a year. Then one day, he decided, he went to the bazaar, he bought the equipment, he bought the raisins, and set up a little distillery in the basement. He rides a Honda CG125 and delivers on his bike. He’s the saaghi of the people in last paragraph. He sold them the aragh. He’s proud of it. It is good Aragh and everyone knows it’s so difficult to find good aragh these days.

The image is from the Farsi wikipedia page about saaghi. It depicts a saaghi, but no further information is given.

“Saaghi! Set ablaze my glass with the light of wine
Singer! Sing that the world goes around, in favour of mine

In this chalice I see, an image of her eyes
How would you know the joy, of this debauching of wine”
                                                                               Hafez